Fine garments and earthenware are part of the rich cultural heritage in Africa, but craftsmen are often underprivileged and exploited. Sara Abera's project for a handicraft production company aims to change that by supplying quality items to high-end markets in a socially and environmentally responsible way.
Born in Wollega, in south-western Ethiopia, Sara was schooled in Addis Ababa. She followed a fashion design course there before moving to Athens in 1985 to complete further fashion studies. On returning to Ethiopia, she was alarmed to see how undervalued traditional handicrafts, particularly woven goods, had become. This, in turn was leading to a depletion of Ethiopian craft skills, once passed on from one generation to the next.
"At the same time, I realized that there was a potential market for high quality woven products in richer countries," says Sara. It was at this time that she founded her first company, Sara Garment Designers and Manufacturers, a business that now counts Ethiopian Airlines among its customers, in addition to its international clients.
A decent living in a healthy environment
Then, in 2005, Sara created Muya Ethiopia, a handicraft centre producing high-quality clothing, accessories and home furnishings for export to high-end markets. "Prestige brands in the global north already produce African-inspired lines, but these rarely have any benefits for Africa. I wanted to reclaim a segment of the market in which Ethiopia should be more active."
"We're aiming to break into luxury markets in the north by establishing lasting partnerships with agents and importers. We have a rare expertise in using age-old designs and production techniques to produce high-quality contemporary items," notes Sara. "Now, we need to use the expertise of partners to market our products appropriately. This is an area where Cartier and McKinsey consultants can really help us."
The business also has clear social benefits, providing its craftsmen and women with vital employment and quality-awareness training. Already it has 120 employees, working on a clean, safe compound in Addis Ababa. They are provided with raw materials, as well as a subsidized meal every day. A similar, larger site is now under construction, with plans to take on a further 600 weavers and potters in the next five years. Muya Ethiopia's socially-responsible model has resulted in its becoming the first Ethiopian company to obtain coveted International Fair Trade Association membership.
"Our products may be slightly more expensive than other items available on the market, but we believe that the modern consumer will be prepared to pay a premium for the tradition, quality and social benefits that anchor the business," says Sara.
Changing Ethiopia’s image
Muya Ethiopia has already taken part in a number of trade fairs in North America and Europe, but there is still a lot of work to be done. "Winning the Cartier Women's Initiative Awards would bring international recognition from a major consumer brand to our project." explains Sara. "We need a strong market strategy if we are to succeed and I hope that the coaching phase will help us to refine our business plan for the markets we hope to enter."
"Recent history has had a negative impact on the world's perception of Ethiopia," adds Sara. "By exporting our cultural heritage and know-how, we hope to show the world that there is much more to our country than drought and food shortages."
